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Champlain Canal
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25 Miles
Flat riding along historic canalways. Some traffic situations
with good bike lanes.
Waterford is about 11 miles north of Albany. If you take I-787,
go NY 32/Saratoga Street to downtown. Look for signs to the Canal
Park, at Canal Lock 2. There is good parking here.
The Champlain Canal was built to connect the Hudson River, which
flows south to the Atlantic, with Lake Champlain which flows north
into the Saint Lawrence River. The history of the Champlain Canal
is closely linked with that of the Erie Canal. Both were begun in
1817, soon after peace came to a territory that had known brutal
warfare for over a century. Both followed unsuccessful attempts
by private companies to construct navigational improvements. At
just 60 miles in length, the Champlain Canal opened in 1823, two
years earlier than the Erie. Somehow, the Champlain never seemed
to "get respect." Perhaps that was because a canal linking the northern
end of Lake Champlain and the Saint Lawrence River, all in Canada,
was not completed until 1858. Perhaps it was because of America's
fascination with the opening and settlement of the West. In any
case, the Champlain, like the Erie, was a vast commercial success.
Also like the Erie, and important to us here, is the role the route
plays in linking together much of early American history.
Back in the early 1800s, the first Champlain Canal was built parallel
to but entirely separate from the Hudson River. The original Champlain
Canal followed the west shore of the Hudson northward from Waterford
in Saratoga County and crossed to the east shore in Washington County
just north of Schuylerville. It followed the east shore northward
to Fort Edward. Efforts are being made to open the old towpath for
recreational use. It is largely intact, waiting to be redeveloped.
You will see many signs of the old Champlain Canal alignment as
you pedal north.
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Lock2 Canal Park in Waterford contains
excellent interpretive material on both the Erie and Champlain
Canals.
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A great start is to look over some of the exhibits at the Canal
Park. Once you're ready to ride, go back to the center of Waterford
and take 3rd Street which is Bike Route 9." Bike "9," a continuous
route from New York City to the Canadian border near Montreal, is
your best guide between Waterford and Whitehall. The segment between
Waterford and Whitehall is being developed into a "scenic byway"
by Saratoga and Washington counties. Open segments of the old Champlain
Canal towpaths can be found in Waterford, Schuylerville and Fort
Edward. The Champlain "Barge Canal" which is open for use the entire
distance serves the entire route.
Bike "9" turns north onto 3rd Street in Waterford. In two miles
you will pass a historic marker indicating the furthest north point
reached by the crew of Henry Hudson. In the same year that Henry
Hudson's crew reached this point, just a few months earlier in 1609,
Samuel de Champlain reached what is now Ticonderoga. There, at the
instigation of his Huron allies, de Champlain launched a punitive
raid against the Iroquois. This began more than a century of hostility
between the Iroquois and the French. Sadly too, on his way back
down the Hudson River, Henry Hudson found himself at war with the
local Indians.
Continue north, passing through Mechanicville to Stillwater (Mile
11). There is a canal park at Lock 4 in Stillwater. From Stillwater,
for the next dozen miles, you will be passing through the various
historical sites that comprised the Saratoga Battlefield. It is
an understatement to say that historic markers abound. There are
plenty on both sides of the Hudson, identifying all the sites of
the many skirmishes that took place as the British tried to attack
and then retreat from the blocking American forces. At Mile 16 is
the entrance to the National Historical Park. Be sure to take this
detour. There is an entrance fee for cyclists. The park contains
a nine-mile loop road (paved) that will take you to all the important
sites of the Battle of 1777. Allow yourself several hours as the
National Park Service has done a wonderful job of highlighting the
principal events of the multi-day battle which took place here.
The loop is a quiet one-way roadway which takes you to the commanding
"heights" which the American forces had occupied to halt the British
advance. The interpretive center will give you much information
about the many battles that comprised this campaign which extended
into Hubbardton (near Rutland, Vermont) and Walloomsac (near Bennington,
Vermont). This was no small campaign. It included naval engagements
on Lake Champlain. I, for one, never ceased to be impressed at how
so many thousands of troops, of many nationalities, were assembled
and competently commanded, in what was certainly a vast wilderness.
One of America's most competent commanders in this complex battle,
and the founder of the American navy at Whitehall (which comes near
the end of this tour), was Benedict Arnold. There is a memorial
to him at the battlefield, but, as he had subsequently deserted
and gone to the British side, and "Benedict Arnold" had become synonymous
with "traitor," his name was omitted. You'll see this on the park
loop road. At the 155-foot obelisk commemorating the Battle at Schuylerville,
there are spaces for four enormous statues. The one blank wall is
for Arnold.
Had General Burgoyne succeeded in reaching Albany, and the British
campaign in the Mohawk Valley been successful, the Colonies would
have been split in two. Instead, the defeat at Saratoga, coupled
with the losses in the Mohawk Valley at Oriskany and Fort Stanwix
were the first major American victories. The prospect of defeating
the British brought the essential French support that was necessary
for the Revolution to succeed.
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The Schuyler House, a summer
retreat, was the site of "Gentleman Johnny's" surrender.
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When you exit the park, return to Bike "9" and continue north.
At Schuylerville (Mile 24), you'll come to the Schuyler House (1777)
where General Burgoyne surrendered after the Battle of Saratoga.
Hopefully, you visited the Schuyler Mansion in Albany; this was
their summer home. Also near Schuylerville is the 155-foot tall
Saratoga Battlefield Monument, a short distance off-route. Road
signs will help you locate it easily. The monument, built between
1877 and 1883, has been thoroughly reconditioned by the National
Park Service. You can climb to an overlook at the top of the obelisk.
A new Canal Visitors Center has been opened in Schuylerville,
located directly adjacent to Bike Route "9." Adjacent to the Visitors
Center is an unpaved stretch of the Champlain Canal towpath, which
connects the Schuyler House at the southern end with a small park
at Champlain Barge Canal Lock 5. The park contains ruins of old
Lock 9 as well as views of an old canal aqueduct. It's a nice historic
ending to a ride through history.
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The best preserved section
of the old Champlain Canal is in Schuylerville.
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* From Cycling Along The
Canals of New York State by Louis Rossi
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